Korea was a country I never knew much about before my first visit, and even then I only made that first visit because Korea was a stepping stone on my overland route from China to Japan after doing the Trans-Siberian Railway. I went there with no expectations and found a place I really liked (the food especially was a revelation!), and I’ve made repeated visits since while moving between spells living in Japan, China, and Taiwan.
I’ve never actually properly lived in Korea, but have had a couple of 6-week stays and know it would be a good place for me to live – Seoul’s a buzzing place with great hiking right in the city, excellent transportation, lively nightlife, awesome food, and snowboarding close at hand; it ticks all the major boxes!
As mentioned above, Korea’s position between China and Japan makes it a useful stepping stone on overland routes around NE Asia, with ferries plying a variety of routes to both (and also one route to Russia).
How to travel to and from (South) Korea overland
Although the Korean peninsula is physically connected to China and Russia, South Korea is effectively an island due to the political situation. With it being impossible to travel there by land, overlanders must go by sea. Fortunately, there are plenty of options:
There are multiple ferry routes from northern China to the ports of Incheon and Pyeongtaek on Korea’s west coast. The most useful for overland travellers are Incheon – Dandong, Incheon – Dalian, Incheon – Tianjin, and Incheon – Qingdao; see my China page for more details on these routes.
For Japan, the usual route is through Busan, SK’s second city and largest port, on the south-east coast. High speed hydrofoils run between Busan and Fukuoka in just a few hours, while slower (overnight) car ferries run to Shimonoseki and all the way to Osaka. You can also reach Japan from Donghae (see below). The Busan ferry terminal is located a short distance (one subway stop, a short taxi ride, or walkable in 20 minutes) from the main Busan train station where the KTX terminates. For more information on these routes, especially if going from Japan to Korea, see my Japan page.
For Russia, there is a weekly ferry (DBS Ferry) between the east coast port of Donghae and Vladivostok. DBS also connects Donghae and Sakaiminato, Japan, once a week.
Overland travel within Korea
Korea’s public transportation is excellent, with well-developed road and rail networks. The KTX high speed rail connects the major cities and covers Seoul to Busan in under three hours; a highway bus does Seoul – Busan in six hours or so. There are ferries to Jeju Island leaving from various southern ports (listed here), and if you want to visit the controversial Dokdo (for all of 20 minutes) it’s a ferry from Pohang or Donghae on the east coast to Ulleungdo, and then the boat to Dokdo from there.
Some Korea Highlights
Go skiing. Korea is home to a couple-dozen ski resorts, and the city of Pyeongchang is set to host the 2018 Winter Olpymics. The alpine events are to be held at Yongpyong, a resort around 2.5 hours from Seoul (by bus). If that’s too far, there are some smaller hills closer to Seoul such as Jisan Forest Resort.
Go hiking – this is an extremely popular pastime in Korea, and the weekends see armies of Gortex-clad elderly Koreans marching up the mountains – and often then off-setting the health benefits with bottles of makgeolli (a fermented rice drink) on the summit! The country consists almost entirely of mountainous terrain, and you can do some really satisfying day hikes without even leaving the city.
Eat. Korean cuisine is one of my favourites; spicy, hearty, and full of robust flavours, it gets straight down to business and doesn’t mess around. I love it!
Drink get drunk. Korea knows how to party, and drinking is not done in moderation; you may be on holiday, but get drinking with the locals and your liver will be working overtime. Soju is a rough rice liquor drunk entirely for the alcohol content and not the taste, and downed by the shotload; you will be expected to drink your share!
Take a DMZ (De-Militarized Zone) tour to the heavily fortified border with the north. Not only do you get a fascinating glimpse into the hermit state, you can actually cross the border and stand on North Korean soil (though entirely within the confines of a negotiation building straddling the demarcation line)
Check out the royal palaces and shrines in central Seoul, and the traditional housing in areas like Bukchon Hanok village.
Take a stroll along Cheonggyecheon, a lovely stream running through Seoul that was formerly covered over by a highway before being uncovered and spruced up in an urban revitalisation scheme.
Resources and Useful Links for Visiting Korea
All my Korea posts here
Flexible travel insurance from World Nomads, especially useful if you’re already overseas (this is an important point, as I once learned the hard way in Bangkok). For those hitting the slopes, check out their winter sports cover.
For hiking inspiration, check out my guide to hiking in Seoul
See the Korail website for train timetables.
Seoul Sub→urban is a fun blog which explores Seoul one subway station at a time, visiting the surrounds of one station per post. It’s a work in progress, and they’ve covered about half of the system so far; as well as being entertaining, it’s also actually a pretty useful way of checking out an area you’re looking at on Airbnb, for example. I particularly like their take on Jamsil Station and the People’s Republic of Lotte!
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